D'Ispahan à Kashan
Par marie-claude pornin le lundi, octobre 15 2018, 15:02 - Iran octobre 2018 - Lien permanent
Dimanche 14 octobre
D’Ispahan à Kashan
Une longue, longue journée
Départ de l’hôtel à 8h
Arrêt pour goûter des confiseries, spécialités d’Ispahan, toujours très sucrées mais bon, à consommer avec modération.
L’autoroute traverse des paysages désertiques, des montagnes de chaque côté , l’une culmine à près de 4000 m;
Beaucoup de caravansérails en ruines, nous sommes sur la Route de la soie. On quitte l’autoroute pour prendre une petite route sinueuse qui va nous conduire à Abyaneh. Nous prenons de l’altitude. Nous sommes en zone sensible, des militaires sont en poste: zone de défense aérienne de l’Iran.
Vallée plus verdoyante, on voit même de l’eau couler. Abyaneh, 2222 m d’altituede
Accroché au Mont Karbs, Abyaneh est un des 4 villages traditionnels du pays. Un peu frais quand on descend du bus mais le soleil va vite nous réchauffer. Le climat y est rude en hiver. Des ruelles sinueuses bordées de maisons en pisé ocre rose, balcons en bois. Très belle vue sur la vallée. De moins en moins d’habitants, les jeunes désertent pour la ville. Ils parlent un dialecte depuis l’époque sassanide (220 ans après JC), date de la construction du village. Toujours vêtues de leur costume traditionnel les vieilles femmes vendent leur artisanat. Un très bon moment dans ce village, quelques achats.
On reprend la route pour Kashan et, avant de rejoindre l’autoroute, petit encas: pastèque au bord d’un ruisseau.
Kashan, la ville natale de Zahra, maintenant elle habite Ispahan.
Notre première visite sera pour un beau jardin persan à la périphérie de la ville: le Jardin Fin. Aménagé près d’une source naturelle, le lieu est resté célèbre suite à l’assassinat de Amir Kabir (1852), un vizir réformateur qui avait engagé l’Iran sur la voie de la modernisation… mais ça ne plaisait pas à tout le monde.
Déjeuner ordinaire dans un restaurant à touristes.
Une belle visite: Khan-e Tabatabaei: une grande et belle maison de Kashan, restaurée.
Un bassin agrémenté de fontaines occupe la partie centrale de la maison qui comprend trois parties. L’intérieur (andaruini) réservé à la famille. L’extérieur (biruni) où l’on recevait les invités et le quartier de domestiques
Visite d’une petite mosquée-mausolée avec explication d’un mollah. Sous le tchador j’ai bien cru que j’allais me liquéfier. Il faisait lourd, l’orage menaçait et un peu de pluie a été la bienvenue.
Mosquée Masjed-e Agha Borzog, fleuron de l’art islamique de Kashan: un chef d’œuvre des Qaddjars... pour une fois que les Qadjars font quelque chose de bien au lieu de détruire!!! La nuit commençait à tomber quand nous y sommes entrés. Une belle porte, une première cour et une seconde en contre-bas avec une fontaine, un miharb: Magnifique monument!
Le Bazar Bazar historique, endroit remarquable en particulier le caravansérail " Timche-ye" de forme circulaire avec ses boutiques et un dôme magnifiquement décoré et fermé par un puits de lumière. Quelques achats.
A la suite de Zahra découvertes du centre moderne et commerçant de Kashan, des rials à écouler...
Et puis, une surprise… Zahra nous a emmenés chez ses parents prendre le thé, Nous sommes un peu gênés, nous arrivons les mains vides, et que doit-on faire quand on est invité en Iran?
La question ne se pose plus, après bien des manœuvres le chauffeur nous dépose dans la cour d’une très grande maison en plein centre de Kashan.
Maison sur 2 niveaux. On a étalé un tapis sur la terrasse pour nous recevoir et nous prenons place sur des fauteuils. On salue sa famille: sa maman, sa plus jeune sœur et ses deux frères, son papa, dirigeant une usine de tapis, est toujours au travail.
On nous propose des fruits et nous sommes surpris de trouver dans la corbeille des cornichons, Michel a essayé… Thé, petits gâteaux… Zahra nous a fait visiter une partie de la maison, peu de meubles, mais des tapis somptueux partout dans les immenses pièces, le grand salon de réception a, à peu près, la superficie du rez de chaussée de notre maison. Nous sommes certainement dans la haute société de Kashan. Accueil chaleureux… ce qui ne nous surprend plus! Les iraniens sont ainsi…
Nous prenons congé pour aller à pieds dans une « maison de force », salle de sport traditionnel, découvrir la pratique d’un sport ancien.
Retour au bus, resté dans la cour de la maison de Zahra, un panier repas nous avait été préparé.
En route pour l’hôtel … et au passage soupe offerte à l’occasion de l’anniversaire de l’assassinat de l’Imam Hossen (680 après JC).
On a goûté à tout dans la chambre mais on n’avait pas vraiment faim, on était surtout très fatigué.
Demain route pour l’aéroport de Téhéran…
Arrêt prévu à Qom, ville religieuse, là, il va falloir revêtir le tchador. Cette visite n’était pas dans notre programme mais on a déjà fait quelques ajouts...
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