Ispahan
Par marie-claude pornin le lundi, octobre 15 2018, 14:57 - Iran octobre 2018 - Lien permanent
Samedi 13 octobre
Problème ... mon blog de nouveau bloqué, je complèterai plus tard.
Tout va bien, j'ai pu mettre les photos.
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Allez, je reprends plus d'une semaine après notre retour, beaucoup d'occupation!
Visite de nos petits enfants d'Autriche, des ouvriers à la maison pour terminer l'installation de la clim (chauffage pour maintenant) et le safran et les valises ...
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Une journée consacrée à la visite d’Ispahan, le joyau de l’Iran.
Première visite: le Palais Kahh-e Chehel Sotun dit Palais aux 40 colonnes
Situé dans un beau parc, autrefois au milieu de plusieurs jardins, le bâtiment actuel date de 1706, à l’origine pavillon de fête et de réception des ambassadeurs étrangers. Il doit son nom aux 20 colonnes de son talar (porche à piliers), colonnes en bois cannelé qui, en se reflétant dans le bassin du parc, semblent atteindre 40. La grande salle est un véritable joyau avec fresques, miniatures et céramiques. Le jardin du palais illustre parfaitement le « jardin persan.
Nous revenons sur la magnifique place que nous avons découverte hier, toute illuminée, la Place Naqsh-e Jahan, on lui donne plusieurs noms mais Zahra nous demande de retenir: « Miroir du Monde », 2ème en superficie après Tienanmen, mais tellement plus belle à mon avis. (Je me répète)
Shah Abbas en a fait le fleuron de sa nouvelle capitale en 1602.
Cette place a connu peu de modification hormis le grand bassin et les fontaines ajoutées par les Pahlavi.
L’organisation de la vie du royaume a ses symboles autour de cette place:
Religieux avec la Mosquée Masjed-e Shah
Politique avec le Palais Kakh-e Ali Qapu, palais de réception
Education avec la Madrasa, maintenant Mosquée Cheikh Lotfollah
Economique avec le Bazar, Bazar-e Bozorg
Nous voici maintenant devant la grande et majestueuse mosquée: Masjed-e Shah, la mosquée du roi.
Pleine d’élégance avec ses faïences bleues, elle s’élève à une extrémité de la place.
Dôme, minarets… chaque partie de cet édifice est une œuvre d’art à part entière.
La cour intérieure, avec en son centre un bassin aux ablutions, est encadrée par 4 iwans (porches) Sanctuaire principale avec une coupole décorée de roses… Minbar et Mihrab en marbre… De salle en salle on est ébloui.
Le sanctuaire principale s’ouvre sur 2 madraseh.
C’est dans une de ces cours que nous avons une discussion avec un Mollah parlant parfaitement français. Il a répondu à nos questions entre autre sur la violence que l’on ressent venir de l’islam et sur la place des femmes dans l’islam.
Ses réponses…
Non, l’islam ne prône pas la violence avec, au passage, un coup de griffe à l’Arabie Saoudite, grandement responsable de notre ressenti! Nous devons retenir une chose: les iraniens sont des perses chiites. Quand à la réponse sur les femmes il a un peu « noyé le poisson ». Pour me rassurer il m’a dit qu’il pourrait, sans problème, venir avec moi prier dans une église.
Après ces bonnes paroles passage au Bazar-e Bozorg. Arrêt chez un marchand de tapis, on a apprécié ses explications sur l’origine et la fabrication de ses tapis « faits main » et son thé était délicieux… Et comme nous étions assez motivés, les affaires furent vite conclues! Pouvions-nous repartir d’Iran sans un tapis persan? Bon, maintenant, à Fontenette, il faudra rentrer pieds nus!!!
Déjeuner dans un restaurant typique du bazar, un moment agréable, assis sur un trône autour de bons plats. Zahra a versé une larme sur la situation économique de son pays qui se dégrade, après l’espoir né il y a deux ans… on la sent très peinée!
Les visites reprennent
Mosquée Cheikh-e Lotfollah, mosquée plus petite qui était autrefois une madraseh (école coranique).
Dôme recouvert de faïences de couleur pâle qui prend les nuances du crème au rose selon les moments de la journée. Ni cour, ni minarets mais on est toujours aussi admiratif sous ses voûtes... Magnifique!
Palais Kakh-e Ali Qapu
Edifié fin 16ème siècle pour abriter la résidence du Shah Abbas 1er
Le palais servit également de pavillon de réception et de porte monumentale pour accéder aux palais royaux situés à l’arrière dans le parc au milieu des jardins persans qui n’existent plus maintenant.
La plupart des mosaïques et des peintures furent détruites par la dynastie Qadjar. Ah, ces Qadjar, ils en ont fait des dégâts!
Beaucoup de marches à monter pour découvrir la partie la plus curieuse du palais: l’admirable salon de musique situé au dernier étage.
Mais c’est bien à la nuit tombée, quand tout est illuminé et que les colonnes se reflètent dans le bassin que ce palais nous offre sa plus belle façade!
Mais en cette fin d'après midi, de la terrasse nous balayons cette immense place royale à 180° … avec ses arcades et les boutiques qu’on devine, le bassin, les calèches qui baladent touristes et iraniens, les dômes et les minarets des mosquées… spectacle quotidien à Ispahan, spectacle exceptionnel pour nous! Spectacle inoubliable!
Un dernier petit tour de la place, lèche-vitrines, quelques achats et il faisait nuit quand nous sommes de retour à l’hôtel.
On repartira s’installer dans un petit bar pas très loin de l’hôtel: mojito (sans alcool) et sandwich au bacon (de bœuf ).
Voilà notre dernière soirée à Ispahan après une longue journée de visites!
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