Kerman Mahan Rayen Kerman
Par marie-claude pornin le mardi, octobre 9 2018, 18:53 - Iran octobre 2018 - Lien permanent
Lundi 8 octobre
Une merveilleuse journée se termine...malgré un petit incident.
Presque la grasse matinée, je me sens un peu plus reposée ce matin, départ 9H30. Direction Mahan et Rayen sud de Kerman. Toujours une belle route, les montagnes se font plus hautes et je crois que les sommets enneigés ne sont pas bien loin.
Premier arrêt à Mahan
Mausolée
Un très beau mausolée, coupole bleue, minarets jumeaux. Pour arriver à la salle de prière nous traversons deux cours intérieurs avec bassins et petits parterres fleuris. Un bel endroit!
Quelque kms plus loin nous entrons dans un magnifique jardin persan classé à l’UNESCO. Au milieu d’un paysage semi-désertique des fontaines en cascades descendent du pavillon de l’ancien gouverneur de Mahan vers l’entrée, de chaque côté des cascades, des arbustes et des fleurs… difficile de décrire, les photos ne rendront pas ce qu’on a vu.
La Salle d’apparat du gouverneur, Mohammad hasan khan Iravan, était fermée mais Zarah a usé de sa persuasion habituelle et on lui a ouvert les portes. Nous voici dans un petit salon, la lumière du soleil passait à travers des vitraux colorés et là, on comprend qu’une séance de photos nous attend. Les hommes étaient un peu réticents mais se sont laissés faire. Notre chauffeur est photographe mais comme beaucoup d’iraniens qui ont fait des études, ils doivent faire plusieurs métiers pour vivre. Il nous a mitraillés toute la journée et les photos me plaisent bien. Pour terminer la visite, on s’est installé sur un trône pour déguster la spécialité locale: une boisson à l’eau de rose. Quel bon moment passé dans ce merveilleux jardin!
On reprend la route pour Rayen… la police, accompagnée d’un chien renifleur, fouillait quelques voitures. Zarah nous a expliqué qu’il y avait pas mal de trafique de drogue. À Kerman et dans la région il n’est pas rare de faire pousser du cannabis dans son jardin en toute discrétion.
Le grand attrait de Rayen, petite ville à 100 km au sud de Kerman, est sa forteresse , la plus impressionnante après Bam détruite par un tremblement de terre il y a17 ans. Ses vastes remparts dominent la ville. C’est une véritable petite ville avec, au milieu, la résidence du gouverneur qui est bien restautée.. On s’est baladé dans un véritable labyrinthe de couloirs, de pièces , de cours intérieurs, on pourrait s’y perdre.
Restauration en cours
On a emprunté quelques petits escaliers pas faciles à pratiquer. On est monté au plus haut qu’on pouvait mais les remparts ne sont pas accessibles. Vue sur les montagnes dont le Mont Hezar (4420 m)
Retour à Kerman: 100 km, j’ai somnolé un peu.
Un petit accident à l’arrivée à Kerman, on se demandait comment il n’y avait pas plus d’accrochage en ville … Et bien, on a vu, un véhicule a forcé le passage à notre droite et il y a eu accrochage. Tout d’abord, ça a parlementé très, très fort, notre chauffeur n’était pas dans son tord. Enfin notre guide a appelé 2 taxis qui nous ont conduits au restaurant, il était presque 16H. La suite… La police est venue, l’autre était mal, un véhicule pas assuré et avec un attelage non réglementaire qui ne devrait pas circuler en ville. Enfin personne n’a été sanctionné, on ne comprend pas trop. Pas beaucoup de dégâts mais notre chauffeur était choqué, c’est son véhicule personnel, son outil de travail.
Notre guide nous a proposé des visites, non prévues au programme, dans Kerman. Quelle bonne idée!
Visite du Bazar-e Sartasari: musée de la monnaie, marché de l’or, marché des dinandiers, musée des bains avec l’ancien hammam… Des cours intérieurs, la belle place Gang Ali Khan... Magnifiques bâtiments!
Un dernier arrêt pour acheter les pâtisseries traditionnelles de Kerman, pâtisseries que nous mangeront à l’hôtel accompagnées d’un thé, ce sera notre dîner… sachant que notre « repas de midi » s’était terminé à près de 17H. On avait hésité à faire ce détour pour Kerman… aucun regret, aujourd’hui nous avons vu des lieux exceptionnels.
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