Sultanahmet vendredi 26 septembre
Par marie-claude pornin le samedi, septembre 27 2014, 05:54 - Istanbul 2014 - Lien permanent
Ce matin, direction: le centre historique d’Istanbul.
Un peu d’histoire Byzance Constantinople Istanbul: une seule et même ville
La ville de Byzance a été fondée vers 660 avant JC. Elle fut conquise par Rome en 146 avant JC. L’empereur Constantin en fit la capitale de l’empire romain et elle prit alors le nom de Constantinople. Prise par les ottomans, ce n'est qu'en 1930 qu'elle prit le nom d'Istanbul sous la présidence d'Atatürk.
Nous avons pris le tram pour Sultanahmet, le quartier où s’élèvent les monuments les plus emblématiques de la ville. Nous avons pris un pass-musée qui nous donne un accès libre pendant 3 jours. Margaret et Patrick sont partis de leur côté et nous du nôtre, il y avait tellement de visiteurs qu’il aurait été difficile de se suivre.
Topkapi sera notre première visite, édifié à partir de 1459 par le sultan Mehmet II, ce palais restera la résidence des sultans ottomans pendant 4 siècles. Nous avons fait un voyage au cœur des fastes et de la puissance ottomanes.
Des trésors, des joailleries en or, pierres précieuses sont exposés dans quatre salle: des merveilles pour les yeux, dans une vitrine scintille le plus gros diamant du monde: une pierre de 86 carats.
Objet de toutes les fascinations: le harem et son dédale d’appartements tapissés de faïences d’Iznik. Favorites, concubines y vivaient, gardées sous la vigilance des eunuques. La vie était rythmée par les jalousies, les trahisons, les conflits... pas toujours facile!
D'une terrasse de Topkapi nous avions une belle vue sur la ville.
Aujourd'hui nous voyons le Bosphore rejoindre la mer de Maramara.
Pause à une terrasse de café où nous avons retrouvé par hasard Margaret et Patrick.
Nous partons ensuite visiter Sainte Sophie. La première construction fut commencée par Constantin premier empereur convertit au christianisme. Brûlée, reconstruite plusieurs fois, c’est Justinien qui bâtit l’ immense basilique que l’on peut voir aujourd’hui. La construction a duré entre 5 et 10 ans (les sources diffèrent), une véritable prouesse. Merveille des merveilles qui a pâti du temps et a beaucoup perdu de sa splendeur. Passé les contreforts anti-sismiques on plonge dans les volumes aériens de la nef dominée par une coupole de 56 m de haut et de 31 m de diamètre. On pouvait admirer de splendides mosaïques racontant l’histoire du christianisme. Bien peu sont visibles actuellement.
Devenue mosquée en 1453, on lui ajouta des minarets. Par contre elle garda son nom Ayasofya et ne subit aucune modification, elle était déjà bien abîmée à cette époque.
C’est en 1935 qu’Ataturk en fit un musée. Les turcs souhaiteraient la voir redevenir mosquée mais, alors, redevenant lieu de culte, l’entrée serait gratuite et avec son million de visiteurs par an, l’état se priverait de revenus substantiels. Tout ce qu’on peut souhaiter pour Sainte Sophie c’est que les restaurations se poursuivent mais pourra-t-elle retrouver un jour son éclat d’antan.
Maintenant allons à la Mosquée bleue. Construite par Ahmet 1er pour défier la grandeur de Sainte Sophie la mosquée jauge sa rivale du haut de 6 minarets. Mais nous y sommes arrivés au moment de la prière du vendredi et nous sommes rentrés seulement dans la cour intérieure. On essaiera d’y retourner, il parait que l’intérieur est magnifique.
Nous terminons la visite de la cité historique par la Citerne basilique: les turcs l'appellent le Palais englouti (532 après JC) Une petite tour pyramidale en face de Sainte Sophie et quelques mètres plus bas, une forêt de 336 colonnes les pieds dans une importante réserve d’eau, 80 mille m3. Ambiance rafraîchissante!
A la sortie la pluie nous attendait et nous a accompagnés le reste de la soirée. Achat de parapluies: les vendeurs de parapluies étaient à tous les coins de rue!
Nous avons pris le tram,après une petite erreur de destination nous sommes arrivés à destination et remontés rapidement vers Galata. Nous n'avons pas trop traîné dans les rues et choisi un resto tout près de l'appart: bon repas pour un prix raisonnable.
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