Le quartier Eyüp mercredi 24 septembre
Par marie-claude pornin le mercredi, septembre 24 2014, 22:03 - Istanbul 2014 - Lien permanent
Il est un peu plus de 21H, nous rentrons de dîner. Ce matin Vincent le propriétaire est venu nous donner quelques conseils, en particulier sur les restaurants. Ce soir Rosette et Michel ont essayé de décrypter ses explications écrites… difficile! Enfin on s’est décidé pour un resto, nous nous sommes retrouvés dans un quartier branché, c’est incroyable le monde qui se retrouve le soir dans les rues, beaucoup de jeunes mais aussi des familles. Dîner moyen, Michel avait commandé une salade, elle était chaude et nous, les filles, avions commandé des pâtes, elles étaient froides. Enfin ce n’est pas grave, on a mangé à notre faim.
Revenons sur la journée, nous avons du faire au moins 12 km. Comme il faisait beau, nous avions opté pour le plein air: explorer la partie ouest de la Corne d’or. Nous avons commencé par rejoindre l’embarcadère presque au pas de course, en traversant des avenues dans des conditions limites, ça n’a pas été simple de trouver le départ du bateau qui devait nous conduire dans le quartier religieux d’Eyüp.
Après 45 mn de bateau nous avons accosté au pied de la mosquée d’Eyüp.
De nombreux pèlerins viennent se recueillir sur les reliques d’Eyüp, porte-étendard de Mahomet. L’imam était en train de prêcher, nous n’avons pas pu faire de photos. La mosquée et le mausolée sont entourés d’un vaste cimetière qui s’étend jusqu’en haut de la colline. On peut y voir, au milieu d’herbes folles, des stèles coiffées d’un turban pour les hommes et de couronnes de fleurs pour les femmes.
Ensuite un funiculaire nous a conduits en haut de la colline, de là une vue magique sur Istanbul s’offrait à nous.
Petite pause thé au Café Pierre Loti, la terrasse de ce café est située près de la maison qu’il occupait quand l’écrivain venait à Istanbul.
La maison de Pierre Loti
Un petit sentier serpentant au milieu du cimetière nous a ramenés à la mosquée.
Un kebab à la main, nous entamons une longue descente dans des rues souvent pavées.
Nous voulions aller voir l’ancienne église Saint-Sauveur-in-Chora, église réputée pour avoir des fresques et des mosaïques les plus précieuses du monde byzantin. Nous avions un plan mais toutes les rues ne figuraient pas dessus et nous marchions dans des rues sans nom.
Des turcs sympathiques nous ont bien aidés, mais ce fut difficile, très difficile. On a monté, descendu, remonté et encore descendu… Istanbul est construite sur 7 collines, on en a exploré une aujourd’hui!
Au passage on a pu voir ce qui reste des remparts de Théodose.
Sur le parcours Michel s’est fait piégé, il était le seul à avoir des chaussures qui pouvaient se cirer et un cireur a insisté. Alors il a laissé faire, l’addition fut un peu cher et en plus le cireur rendait très mal la monnaie, là Michel n’a pas été d’accord… on ne conseillera pas ce cireur à Aquilino Morelle !
Enfin nous voilà devant l’église … qui était fermé le mercredi!!!
Nous continuons notre descente, nous passons devant une mosquée … elle aussi fermée.
Sur la carte nous avions repéré une église orthodoxe réputée, deux jeunes filles nous y ont accompagnés. L’église Patrikhanesi possède une iconostase recouverte de feuilles d’or. Nous avons pu admirer de belles icônes. Des prêtres officiaient, je n’ai pris qu’une photo en toute discrétion.
Et puis doucement nous avons longé la rive ouest de la Corne d’or, Patrick et Michel ont bu un verre de raki avec des pêcheurs qui faisaient griller leurs poissons au bord de l’eau.
Nous avons traversé le pont Atatürk, encore un petit effort pour rejoindre la tour Galata et, avant de remonter les quatre étages , on s’est écroulé à la terrasse d’un café.
Ce soir tout le monde est bien fatigué. Demain nous allons essayer de faire la croisière sur le Bosphore: se reposer sur le bateau en admirant certainement pleins de belle choses, ce sera très bien et moins fatigant.
Commentaires
Tu n'as pas été à la gymnastique mais tu l'as bien remplacée par ces belles promenades ! merci de nous faire profiter de ces sites superbes.
Amicalement.
Anne
je vois que les Eglises sont fermées aussi ; nous avons voulu visité FATIMA mais en travaux jusqu'en décembre 2015..... Tu vas avoir la forme après toutes ces ballades Merci pour cette ballade a travers tes photos
magnifique!!!! et les commentaires geniaux
je m evade!!!! je m evade!!!!!
merci
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