De Rahonira à Ifaty Jeudi 7 novembre
Par marie-claude pornin le jeudi, novembre 7 2013, 05:55 - A la découverte de la « Grande Île » octobre-novembre 2013 - Lien permanent
Nous voici à Ifaty à l’hôtel Nautilus, un petit coin de paradis au bord du canal de Mozambique. Les côtes africaines sont à 400 km.
Notre bungalow donne sur la plage et nous n’avons pas résisté longtemps au bonheur de se tremper dans l’eau: une eau chaude. Par contre il y a des rochers plus ou moins gros et Michel a trouvé que c’était un peu gênant pour nager, il faut s’éloigner du rivage. Peu de temps après notre arrivée nous avons pu assister à un beau coucher de soleil. La chambre est correct, ce n’est pas le luxe des deux derniers jours mais le cadre est tellement agréable. L’hôtel est alimenté par un groupe électrogène donc l’électricité est coupée à certaines heures de la journée mais ça ne devrait pas trop nous gêner.
Revenons sur la journée Nous avons quitté l’hôtel « Isalo Rock Lodge » et son cadre presque lunaire un peu avant 7H30. Beau soleil, une chaude journée s’annonçait. Nous avons repris la N7, direction sud-ouest. Bientôt nous traversons les villages des chercheurs de saphir, cette pierre précieuse a attiré beaucoup de monde et engendré bien des espoirs et de déceptions. Il sont de plus en plus nombreux à y vivre mais la pauvreté est aussi criante qu’ailleurs et l’insécurité y règne, nous avons donc passé sans s’y arrêter.
Nous quittons la province de Fianarantsoa pour entrer dans celle de Tuléar. Les mentalités changent, le comportement des gens aussi, nous l’avons remarqué par l’attitude des enfants bien plus agressifs. Les jours derniers ils se partageaient les petites choses qu’on pouvait leur donner, ici ils se battent entre eux. C’est un peu pénible.
Le paysage change. Nous traversons des forêt de tapias et d’eucalyptus.
De moins en moins de relief, toujours cette terre rouge et la végétation est bien moins luxuriante.
Un caméléon
Nous arrivons dans les zones arides du sud qui souffre de la sécheresse même si l’herbe repousse un peu avec les premières pluies. Enfin nous voyons les premiers baobabs, Madagascar compte 7 variétés dont 6 qui ne poussent que dans cette île.
Un petit arrêt dans un village pour acheter des boissons, nous en avons profité pour regarder les petites boutiques et observer le va et vient de la rue.
Michel négocie des mangues.
Un taxi-brousse
Les unes font leurs lessives, les autres cherchent le pierre précieuse qui leur donnera la richesse...
Nous en avons eu des « Salut Vazaha », « Bonbon Vazaha », Savon Vazaha », Cadeau Vazaha » de la part des enfants… un exemple: une petite bouteille d’eau en plastique vide suffit à faire leur bonheur. Dans cette région on peut même parler de famine, pendant la saison sèche ils se contentent de figues de barbarie.
Un peu avant d’arriver à Tuléar nous traversons le tropique du Capricorne et presque en même temps nous apercevons le Canal de Mozambique, ce bras de l’Océan Indien qui sépare Madagascar de l’Afrique. D’ailleurs Madagascar fait partie du continent africain mais les malgaches n’aiment pas trop qu’on les considère comme des africains.
Avant d’arriver à Tuléar nous nous arrêtons pour déjeuner au restaurant de l’Arboretum. Après le repas, en pleine chaleur, nous aurons une visite guidée de ce parc, visite intéressante mais la végétation est à peine démarré.
Nous traversons Tuléar. Un arrêt au marché aux coquillages et divers artisanats: beaucoup de harcèlement de la part des vendeurs et vendeuses.
Et puis nous prenons la piste…
Rencontre au bord de la piste
Un petit coin de paradis, ça se mérite, nous avons encore eu chaud, très chaud sans doute près de 40°.
Ce soir nous avons dit: « Adieu » à nos chauffeurs. Je ne sais même pas comment va se faire notre retour à Tuléar pour prendre l’avion samedi après-midi… mais on est si bien ici!
Demain nous commençons la journée par une balade en pirogue sur le Canal de Mozambique.
Bises à tous
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