Manakara Dimanche 3 novembre
Par marie-claude pornin le dimanche, novembre 3 2013, 17:22 - A la découverte de la « Grande Île » octobre-novembre 2013 - Lien permanent
Une chaude journée s’annonce.
Nous avons de l’électricité mais toujours pas d’eau, ici personne ne paraît étonner, on fera donc une petite toilette à l’eau minérale. Après le petit déjeuner on nous apporte deux seaux d ‘eau, on les garde précieusement pour notre retour de balade.
Après la journée train d’hier, aujourd’hui c’est journée pirogue sur le Canal des Pangalanes.
Ce sera une journée calme et sur l’eau la chaleur sera moins accablante. Nous sommes répartis dans deux pirogues.
Sur la nôtre nous avons deux rameurs à l’avant et six à l’arrière. Aucun gilet de sauvetage, à Madagascar ils ne connaissent pas…
On a remonté un peu le canal creusé au temps de la colonisation, petite explication: « pangalanes » veut dire corvée, chaque malgache devait 15 jours de travail, en plus de leurs impôts, pour le creusement de ce canal.
Nous avons croisé des hommes, des femmes, également des enfants, les pieds dans l’eau qui pêchaient des crevettes.
Nous avons rebroussé chemin pour naviguer sur la rivière Mananara. Une étroite bande de terre nous sépare de l’Océan Indien.
Toujours beaucoup d’animation le long des berges…
Des pêcheurs en pirogues jetaient leurs filets. Des enfants, très petits pour certains, se baignaient et nageaient devant leurs maisons, là l’expression « heureux comme un poisson dans l’eau » s’applique tout à fait.
Plusieurs petits villages de pêcheurs...Nous avons accosté pour en visiter un, on nous avait annoncé des « villages respirant la douceur de vivre » mais on remarquait surtout leur grande pauvreté.
Ils nous ont proposé épices, vanille, artisanat divers. On s’est bien sûr laissé tenter et que pouvait-on faire d’autres? Petits et grands sont habillés en guenilles, quand je pense aux vêtements qu’on ne met plus et qui encombrent nos armoires...
Nous sommes passés sous un pont style « Eiffel » à moitié écroulé, suite à un accident de camion, c’est très gênant pour le transport dans la région, mais on ne répare pas, c’est comme ça à Madagascar!
Arrêt à une distillerie d’huiles essentielles, huiles faites avec des plantes de l’Île. En effet sur l’Île il y a beaucoup de plantes médicinales.
Et tout le long du parcours, sur les berges une végétation luxuriante... Des arbres de toutes sortes, des plantes que l’on peut voir dans nos jardineries mais qui explosent ici en pleine nature.
Nous avons accosté une nouvelle fois pour le pique nique, c’est l’hôtel qui avait tout préparé sur place. Nous avons eu droit à un vrai repas fait de brochettes de crevettes, de poissons et de viande de zébu accompagnés de légumes, ananas en dessert et « rhum arrangé » en digestif. Moment agréable, assis autour d’une grande table sous un auvent végétal.
1H30 de navigation pour revenir à l’hôtel Bien que sur la rivière, nous ressentions une houle importante, les piroguiers peinaient et ramaient à contre courant, ça ne les empêchaient pas de nous chanter leurs chants, un mélange de malgache et français, pour remercier les « Vazahas »
Bonheur en arrivant à l’hôtel, il y avait de l’électricité et de l’eau… pas très chaude mais il ne faut pas trop en demander.
Un petit rhum-coca pour éviter la tourista et un très bon dîner de poissons
Demain 7 heures de route pour Fianarantsoa
A bientôt
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