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Par marie-claude pornin le jeudi, février 18 2010, 19:04 - Voyage Inde Népal 2010 - Lien permanent
Nous reprenons petit à petit nos habitudes. La maison est réchauffée. Nous avons retrouvé le calme de la campagne. La fatigue se fait toujours un peu sentir et nous avons encore un petit coup de barre vers 19H à cause du décalage horaire.
Maintenant il va falloir classer les photos, j’ai encore eu un problème de carte mémoire et j’ai perdu les photos de la première semaine, il y a celles que Michel a prises et je compte beaucoup sur les amis...
Et puis il y a toutes les images et impressions qui resteront gravées dans la tête. En voici quelques unes…
Architecture
Le Rajasthan nous a fascinés par les Forteresses imposantes des Rajpoutes et les extraordinaires palais des Maharajahs. Les intérieurs sont riches de décors précieux, peintures, sculptures… Ils nous font revivre une histoire faite de fastes mais aussi de violences, de guerres et de sacrifices humains. Certains palais sont encore occupés en partie par des Maharajahs, ils n’ont plus de pouvoir politique mais gardent une certaine importance.
Le Maharaja et la Maharani de Bikaner
Moins grandioses mais non moins raffinés : les havelis, maisons des riches marchands sur la route de la soie. Ce sont des maisons à étages, articulées autour d’une ou plusieurs cours ; on a pu admirer le travail soigné des façades, les balcons aux fenêtres ajourées, les peintures murales aussi bien extérieures que intérieures. Certains de ces havelis sont habités ou transformés en hôtels, beaucoup auraient besoin de restauration.
Temples, mosquées, cénotaphes et mausolées méritent une visite. Pour n’en citer qu’un… le Taj Mahal merveille en marbre blanc est le mausolée de Mumtaz Mahal décédée en accouchant de son 14ème enfant. Il fut construit par son époux l’empereur Moghol Shâh Jahân.
Au Népal les « Durbar Square » (ou cœur de la vieille ville) sont des musées à ciel ouvert, on peut y admirer temples-pagodes, monastères, maisons décorées de dentelles de bois.
Religion
On retrouve toutes les religions en Inde mais l’Indouisme est la plus répandue. Difficile de se retrouver dans leur Panthéon… entre les dieux et les réincarnations de ces derniers, c’est très compliqué ! On se souviendra des trois plus importants : Brahma, le créateur, Vishnou, le protecteur et Shiva, le destructeur. Et n’oublions pas le gentil Ganesh, le dieu à tête d’éléphant, fils de Shiva et Parvati, on le voit partout dans les temples bien sûr, les maisons, les hôtels, dans de petits autels dans la rue... c’est le dieu de la sagesse, de la prudence et des bonnes fortunes de toutes sortes…
Nous n’avons visité qu’une mosquée dans laquelle vit une communauté de Soufis, le discours entendu était très tolérant, presque œcuménique.
Au Népal Indouisme et Bouddhisme sont souvent associés, dans les temples ils cohabitent dans la paix.
Partout nous avons pu entrer, ils nous associent volontiers à leurs rites.
A noter deux moments marquant : les crémations qui se sont déroulées sous nos yeux au Népal et les cérémonies au bord du Gange à Bénarès. Le soir la Cérémonie des Lumières nous a permis d’assister à un grand moment de ferveur au son d’une musique tonitruante et le lendemain matin notre promenade en bateau le long des ghats nous a fait toucher le cœur de cette ville sainte.
Hôtellerie Restauration
Nous avions choisi des « Hôtels de charme » et c’était conforme à ce qu’on attendait. C’était propre, l’eau était souvent plus tiède que chaude (de rares fois froide) mais on a fait avec. Personnellement j’ai eu un coup de cœur pour « Mandawa Haveli » pour son cadre, j’ai bien aimé aussi « Fifu Guest House » à Jaisalmer pour son accueil chaleureux et la belle vue sur le Fort que nous avions de la terrasse du restaurant.
Bonne cuisine en général. Nous avons toujours mangé « indien » plus ou moins épicé… souvent dans le restaurant de l’hôtel, quelquefois en ville. Nous avons particulièrement apprécié le « Thali » : repas végétarien servi sur un plateau dans de petites coupelles de mets différents.
Thali
Nous ne regrettons pas la demi-pension qui nous aurait conduits vers un buffet moins typique.
Personne n’a eu de problème à cause de la nourriture.
Environnement
Le service des"ordures ménagères" est inefficace, voir inexistant, il faudrait qu'ils se débarrassent de ces sacs en plastique qui polluent tant, il y a bien quelques efforts dans ce sens mais ce n'est pas suffisant. Toutes les villes sont sales, les petites comme les grandes, certains endroits sont repoussants... vue, odorat! Mais il y a les étalages de colliers de fleurs qui nous font oublier un peu ces désagréments. Et puis il y a les vaches...
rivière à Kathmandu
Il y a aussi la pollution sonore. Que de bruit partout! Circulation infernale de toutes sortes de véhicules à moteur qui klaxonnent sans cesse...
Au Népal c'est à peu près pareil, toutefois nous avons eu plaisir à visiter deux "Durbar Square" (centres historiques) propres et interdits aux véhicules. Quelle belle façon de nous faire découvrir, dans de bonnes conditions, ce patrimoine extraordinaire!
Population
Le vrai spectacle de l'Inde, c'est la rue qui nous l'offre et là, on oublie les détritus qui s'y amoncellent. C'est une scène de théatre sans cesse renouvelée.
Et, dans ce décor, il faut dire que les femmes indiennes occupent une place de choix. En saris aux couleurs chatoyantes ou salwar kameez (pantalon et longue tunique) elles avancent droites et souples, quelle élégance!
Au premier regard on ne distingue pas leur rang social. A Delhi les femmes abandonnent de plus en plus leur tenue traditionnelle, dommage!
Derrière les fenêtres du bus ou du train (lors de nos 7h de retard) nous avons pu observer la vie indienne le long de la route ou de l'autoroute et au bord des voies... il y a toujours une ou plusieurs personnes occupées ou seulement là, accroupies à regarder.
Nous nous sommes mêlés à cette foule en touc-touc, cyclo-pousse ou à pieds... impressionnant! J'ai quelquefois paniqué pour traverser une rue, eux se fraient un passage le plus tranquillement du monde au milieu de cette circulation infernale.
A deux reprises un mariage se déroulait dans l'hôtel où nous dormions. Quel faste... dans le décor, l'organisation, les tenues scintillantes, il y avait certainement entre 500 et 1000 personnes. On nous a invités à venir partager un moment de la cérémonie. Et même si on a passé l'âge de rêver "aux princes et aux princesses", c'est un petit air de "Mille et une nuits" qui nous était offert.
Et puis il y a ces petites princesses aux pieds nus, cheveux sales et grands yeux noirs qui mériteraient tellement mieux...
ces jeunes garçons si débrouillards comme celui qui m'a trouvé un parapluie pour 50 roupies en moins de trois minutes...
ces écolières et écoliers si sérieux dans leurs uniformes...
ces jeunes gens qui nous ont étonnés en nous parlant français, eux ne voient leur avenir que dans le tourisme..
ces jeunes filles réservées qui attendent encore trop souvent le "mariage arrangé"...
ces conducteurs de cyclo-pousse dormant la nuit à côté de leur vélo sur les trottoirs de Jaipur...
ce médecin, ce dentiste auscultant ou soignant sur le trottoir...
ce grand-père et cette grand-mère que nous avons surpris au lit, le matin, en traversant leur chambre... devinez qui étaient les plus surpris?
au Népal cette petite fille de 4 ans, la" Kumari Devi", déesse vivante, séparée de sa famille jusqu'à sa puberté, elle est apparue furtivement à la fenêtre de son palais (ou prison)...
Il y a eu des moments plus difficiles dans ce spectacle de rue.
A Ajmer et à Bénarès nous avons découvert, plus qu'ailleurs, la pauvreté et la misère. A Kathmandu le spectacle de la crémation nous a laissés un moment sans voix... il est vrai que nous n'étions pas prévenus.
Deux moments que je n'oublierai pas:...
A Jaipur, une petite fille (4 ans environ) faisait des acrobaties devant les voitures arrêtées à un feu rouge, pour récupérer quelques roupies, était-ce pour sa famille ou pour une mafia? Je pensais à ma petite Clara...
Avant d'arriver à Jodhpur, un petit garçon nous a suivis avec son papa, pendant toute la visite d'un site, il nous jouait sur un instrument "fait maison" Frère Jacques.
Vont-ils à l'école ces deux enfants? Certainement pas... Quel gâchis!
Et puis il faut bien parler du système des Castes, dans la loi il est aboli (par Nehru en 1955) mais les vieilles habitudes perdurent et ce système régit toujours la société indienne.
La politique permet de monter dans la hiérarchie.
Le mariage est rare entre jeunes gens de castes différentes et si le "mariage d'amour" est possible, c'est sûrement à l'intérieur d'une même caste.
Nous avons eu, au cours du voyage, des guides brahmanes (la caste la plus haute, celle des intellectuels), ils n'étaient pas forcément riches. Mais les terrassiers, balayeurs etc... ne sont jamais des brahmanes... et jamais riches non plus!
De toutes façons c'est très difficile pour nous de s'y retrouver.
Au Népal la vie dans la rue et le long des routes est sensiblement identique. Les femmes sont moins nombreuses à porter le vêtement traditionnel (le même qu'en Inde) et elles le portent, pour certaines, moins élégamment. Nous avons découvert plusieurs types de personnes, certains ressemblent aux Indiens mais beaucoup de népalais ont le type mongol, tibétain.
En Inde comme au Népal nous avons toujours reçu un bon accueil dans la rue, dans les hôtels, dans les lieux de culte.
Au Népal ils harcèlent moins qu'en Inde pour nous vendre leur artisanat
Nous n'avons senti aucune agressivité à notre égard.
Même perdus dans les rues de Kathmandu nous ne nous sommes pas sentis en insécurité... Par compte Margaret et Patrick ont eu très peur!
J'ai été contente de partager ces impressions... je sais que vous avez suivi nos aventures.
Il parait que, soit on fuit l'Inde au premier contact, soit on y retourne...
Pour Michel et moi c'est notre deuxième séjour dans ce pays si attachant, y en aura-t-il un troisième? Ce n'est pas sûr... Pourtant il y a encore tellement à voir et à partager...
Ce qui est certain, c'est que nous avons fait un merveilleux voyage.
Merci encore une fois à Margaret de l'avoir organisé et de nous avoir si souvent servi d'interprète.
Incredible India!!!
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